English

Fuzzy Fun Warmers

This pattern originally appeared in Petite Purls Magazine , winter 2010
Since it was published I found out that you can buy a metal frame in the shape of head phones, it makes the warmers more stable on the head

photos: Roi Shivek » models: Maya, Ella, Liri

One day I participated in an fiber arts workshop. We crocheted this padded circle that was only a small part of a project I never got to finish. When I came back home my child was so excited with the fuzzy circles I decided they must be turned into an item for her. Thus the ear warmers where invented – both practical and fun to wear it is a very easy and quick project to crochet. Don’t we busy mothers need such quick projects from time to time?

Size

2 [4, 6, 8 years]
Size shown: blue & purple – 4 years; beige and light blue – 4 years; purple and light blue – 8 years

Finished Measurements

Warmer circle diameter is approx 4½ inches

Materials

Blue Sky Alpacas Brushed Suri [67% baby suri, 22% merino, 11% bamboo; approx 142 yards/130 meters per 50 gram hank];

Girl’s version:
914 Agua – 1 hank
912 Acai 1 hank

Boy’s version:
906 Toasted Marshmallow – 1 hank
908 Snow Cone – 1 hank

Recommended needle sizes

3.25 mm US size D3 Crochet hook.

Notions

1 plastic Head band at least 2cm wide– it is better to choose a firm band that will hold tight on the child’s head – the padding will make it comfortable to wear
Stitch marker
3½inch long elastic band
Small amount of stuffing material
Sewing pins

Tapestry needle

Gauge

17 sc and 20 rows = 4 inches square. Exact gauge is not important in this project

Pattern Notes

Item is crocheted using smaller size hook in order to create a tight fabric that will hold the stuffing well.
Because children’s heads vary in size, it is advised to add an elastic band at the bottom of the warmers, this will secure the warmers better on their little ears.

Sc2tog: Pull up a loop in each of next 2 sts, yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook.

Skills Required

Increase and decrease in sc, crochet in rounds

INSTRUCTIONS

Girl’s Version

Outer Circle (make 2)
Using CC ch 2.
Rnd 1: 6 Sc in second ch from hook; sl st in first sc to join.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each sc around; sl st in first sc to join: 12 sc.
Rnd 3: Ch 1, (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) around; sl st in first sc to join: 18 sc.
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, (sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around to last sc, sc in last sc; sl st in first sc to join: 24 sc.
Rnd 5: Ch 1, (sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around; sl st in first sc to join: 30 sc.
Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, (sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around to last 2 sc, sc in last 2 sc; sl st in first sc to join: 36 sc.
Rnd 7: Ch 1, (sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around; sl st in first sc to join: 42 sc.
Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, (sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around to last 3 sc, sc in last 3 sc; with MC, sl st in first sc to join; cut CC: 48 sc.
Rnd 9: Ch 1, (sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc) around; sl st in first sc to join: 54 sc.
Rnd 10: Ch 1, sc in each sc around; sl st in first sc to join, fasten off.

Inner circles (make 2)
Using MC throughout, follow the instructions of the Outer Circles.

Head Band

Please note – if you choose a wide head band you will need to crochet a wider band , in this pattern I used a ¾ inch (2 cm) wide plastic band.

With MC ch 7.
Row 1: Sc in third ch from hook and in each ch across: 6 sc.
Row 2: Ch 2, turn; skip first sc, sc in next 4 sc and in next ch.
Repeat Row 2 until band measures 10 [11, 12, 13] inches.
Cut yarn leaving a 20 inch long tail and fasten off.

Boy’s version

First Outer Circle
Using MC throughout, follow the instructions of the Girl’s Version Outer Circles; donot cut yarn.
Next Row: Ch 1, turn; skip first sc, sc in next 9 sc, sl st in next ch: 11 sts.
Next Row: Ch 1, skip first st, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog, sl st in next ch: 9 sts.
Next Row: Ch1, skip first st, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog, sl st in next ch; fasten off: 7 sts.

Second Outer Circle and Headband
Using MC throughout, follow the instruction for the Outer Circle; do not fasten off.
Place marker and continue as follows:
Next Row: Ch 2, turn; sc in second ch from hook and in next 5 sc: 6 sc. turn
Repeat last row until work measures 10[11, 12, 13] inch from the marker , cut yarn , fasten off

Inner Headband

First Inner Circle (inner part is a little smaller in size)
Using CC throughout, follow the instructions for the Girl’s Version Outer Circle through Rnd 9; do not fasten off.
Next Row: Ch 1, turn; skip first sc, sc in 7 sc, sl st in next sc: 9 sts.
Next Row: Ch 1, turn; skip first sc, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog, sl st in next ch: 7 sts.
Next Row: Ch 1, turn; skip first sc, sc2tog, sc in next sc, sc2tog, sl st in next sc; fasten off: 5 sts.

Second Inner Circle
Work same as First Inner Circle; do not cut yarn.

Place marker and continue as follows:
Next Row: Ch 2, turn; sc in second ch from hook and in each of next 4 sts: 5 sc.
Repeat last row until work (from the marker) length is 9½ [10½, 11½, 12½] inches; fasten off.

FINISHING

Please note- in this pattern WS of sts are fuzzier and are therefore used as the outer side of ear warmers.

Girl’s Version

Fold the long edges of headband together, then stitch together forming tube. Insert the plastic headband in tube. Center the crocheted band so that the excess edges of the plastic headband are equal on both sides.

Place one Outer Circle and one Inner Circle with WS of sts together, sew outside edge leaving a one inch opening; cut yarn leaving an 8 inch tail of yarn. Invert work so that WS of sts are facing. Repeat for second pair of circles. Stuff the circles evenly.
Using 8 inch tail, attach ear warmers to head band by sewing edges of head band inside each filled circle (now is a good time to measure the work on a child if you want to..)

Attach elastic band to both ends of the ear warmers, about ¼ inch inside the inner side.

Boy’s Version

Weave in ends.
Using the mattress stitch sew together the outer headband to the outer circle – taking care that both circles are sewn with RS facing the same direction.

Repeat for the Inner Circles and Headband.

Join MC, and sc along side and around outer edges of the Inner piece; fasten off, cut yarn leaving a 20 inch tail.

With WS of both parts facing and using sewing pins as an aid to stretch the shorter inner side to match the outer side, use the mattress stitch sew around the first circle, along one side of the head band and around the second circle, do not cut yarn, turn work so that WS of sts (fuzzier side) is facing. Stuff the side circles evenly, then insert the plastic headband inside work taking care to center the plastic band. Add stuffing to create more volume in the headband area. Once you’re happy with the look, sew remaining seam.

Attach elastic band to both ends of the ear warmers, about ¼ inch inside the inner side.

English

Cornelia Duo

This pattern originally appeared in Petite Purls Magazine , spring 2010

photos: Tagil Perlmutter » model: MP and ZA

For some time this corn yarn waited in my basket to become something. I did not know what to make out of it – such a crisp and smooth and beautiful yarn, what will suit it best?
As spring approached, I combined the love my little girls have for lacey “festive” cardigans with Petite Purls’ idea of eco-friendly materials to create this attractive duo that fits girls of many sizes. You could actually skip the lace and replace it with St st to create a unisex look.

Sizes

0-6 months [6-12month, 1-2 years, 3-4 years, 5-6 years]
Shown in size 5-6 years

Finished Measurements

Chest: 19.75 [22, 24, 26.5, 28.25] inches
Length: 10.5[12.4, 14, 16, 18.5] inches

Materials

Cornelia (my own brand) [100% Corn yarn; 147 yards/135 meters per 1.75 ounce/50 gram ball];

Cardigan:
Off-white [MC]; 3[4, 4, 5, 5] balls
Grass Green [CC]; 1 ball for all sizes

Hat:
Off-white [MC]; 1 ball
Grass Green [CC]; small amount

Alternate yarn: South West Trading Company A-MAIZing [142 yards/130 meters per 1.75 ounce/50 gram ball]

Recommended needle sizes

For Cardigan:
US #7/4.5 mm 32 inch circular needle
Size F-5/3.75 mm crochet hook for button loops
For Hat:
US #7/4.5 mm 16 inch circular needle
2 size 7 dpn needles for hat top I-cord

Notions

3 Stitch holders, 2 buttons, stitch marker

Gauge

20 sts and 28 rows = 4 inches square

Pattern Notes

Raglan shaping is worked 2 sts from the end of the row to make a pretty raglan edge. Cardigan is worked from the bottom in one piece to armholes.

Skills Required

Knitting on dpns, simple lace, blocking, I-cord

INSTRUCTIONS

CARDIGAN

Body

Using the longer circular needle and CC cast on 101[111, 121, 131, 141] sts.
Knit 4 rows (Garter st).
Change to MC and begin lace pattern.
Row 1 (RS): K2tog, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, * s1 1 knitwise, k2tog, psso, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3; repeat from * across to last 2 sts, skp.
Row 2: Purl across.
Rows 3-8: Repeat Rows 1 and 2, 3 times.
Row 9: K1, yo, k3, s1 1 knitwise, k2tog, psso, k3, yo, k1, * yo, k3, s1 1 knitwise, k2tog, psso, k3, yo, k1; repeat from * across.
Row 10: Purl across.
Rows 11-16: Repeat Rows 9 and 10, 3 times.

Sizes 1-2 years, 3-4 years, and 5-6 years Only
Repeat Rows 1-8 one more time.

All Sizes
Work in St st until Body measures 5[6, 7, 8.5, 10] inches from cast on edge.

Divide for Back and Fronts

Next Row: K22[24, 26, 28, 31] sts. Slip these sts onto a stitch holder for right front, bind off 8[8, 10, 10, 10] sts, k40[46, 48, 54, 58], slip last 41[47, 49, 55, 59] sts onto a stitch holder for back, bind off 8[8, 10, 10, 10] sts, k21[23, 25, 27, 30].

Left Front

Row 1: Purl across.
Row 2 (Raglan Shaping): K2, skp, knit across: 21[23, 25, 27, 30] sts.
Row 3: Purl across.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3, 10[11, 12, 13, 15] times, then repeat Row 2 once more: 10[11, 12, 13, 14]sts

Neck Shaping
Row 1: Bind off 4[4, 4, 5, 6] sts, purl across: 6[7, 8, 8, 8] sts.

Row 2: K2, skp, knit across: 5[6,7,7,7] sts.
Row 3: Bind off 1 st at neck edge, purl across: 4[5, 6, 6, 6] sts.
Row 4: K2, skp, knit across: 3[4, 5, 5,5] sts.
Row 5: Bind off 1 st at neck edge, purl across: 2[3, 4, 4, 4] sts.
Row 6: K2tog 1[1, 2, 2, 2] times, knit across.
Cut yarn and pull through remaining st(s).

Back

With WS facing, slip 41[47, 49, 55, 59] sts from stitch holder to needle and rejoin yarn.
Row 1: Purl across.
Row 2 (Raglan Shaping): K2, skp, knit across to last 4 sts, skp, k2: 39[45, 47, 53, 57] sts.
Row 3: Purl across.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3, 13[14, 15, 16, 18] times; slip remaining 13[17,17, 21, 21] sts onto a stitch holder.

Right Front

With WS facing, slip the 22[24, 26, 28, 31] sts on back stitch holder to needle and rejoin yarn.
Row 1: Purl across.
Row 2 (Raglan Shaping): Knit across to last 4 sts, skp, k2: 21[23, 25, 27, 30] sts.
Row 3: Purl across.
Repeat these 2 rows 10[11, 12, 13, 15] times more: 11[12, 13, 14, 15] sts.

Neck Shaping
Row 1: Bind off 4[4, 4, 5, 6] sts, knit across to last 4 sts, skp, k2: 6[7, 8, 8, 8] sts.
Row 2: Purl across.
Row 3: Bind off 1 st, skp, knit across: 4[5,6,6,6] sts.
Row 4: Purl across.
Row5: Bind off 1 st, skp, knit across: 3[4,5,5,5] sts
Row 6: P2tog 1[2,2,2,2] times, purl across.
Cut yarn and pull through remaining st(s).

Sleeves (make 2)

With CC, cast on 31[31, 41, 51, 51] sts.
Knit 4 rows (Garter st).
Change to MC and begin lace pattern.
Row 1 (RS):K2tog, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, * s1 1 knitwise, k2tog, psso, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3; repeat from * across to last 2 sts, skp.
Row 2: Purl across.
Rows 3-8: Repeat Rows 1 and 2, 3 times.
Row 9: K1, yo, k3, s1 1 knitwise, k2tog, psso, k3, yo, k1, * yo, k3, s1 1 knitwise, k2tog, psso, k3, yo, k1; repeat from * across.
Row 10: Purl across.
Rows 11-16: Repeat Rows 9 and 10, 3 times.

Sizes 1-2 year, 3-4 years, and 5-6 years Only
Repeat Rows 1-8 one more time.

All Sizes
Increase Row: Kfb, knit across to last st, kfb: 33[33, 43, 53, 53] sts.

Working in St st, continue to inc 1 st at each edge in same manner, every 4 [4, 6, 10, 10] rows until there are 43[49, 53, 57, 63] sts.

Work even until Sleeve measures 6[8, 9.5, 11.5, 13] inches from cast on edge, ending with a WS row.

Raglan Shaping

Rows 1 and 2: Bind off 4[4, 5, 5, 5] sts at beginning of next 2 rows, work across: 35[41, 43, 47, 53] sts.
Row 3: K2, skp, knit across to last 4 sts, skp, k2: 33[39, 41, 45, 51] sts.
Row 4: Purl across.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4, 13[14, 15, 16, 18] times more: 7[11, 11, 13, 15] sts.
Slip remaining sts onto stitch holder.

Right Front Border

With RS facing and CC, pick up 47[54, 62, 72, 84] sts evenly spaced across Right Front
Knit 4 rows (Garter st).
Bind off all sts knitwise.

Left Front Border

Work same as Right Front Border.

Sew raglan seams.

Neckband

With RS facing and MC, pick up 10[10, 10, 11, 13] sts evenly spaced along left neck edge, k7[11, 11, 13, 15] from right Sleeve st holder, k13[17,17, 21, 21] from back st holder, k7[11, 11, 13, 15] from left Sleeve st holder, pick up 10[10, 10, 11, 13] sts evenly spaced along right neck edge: 47[59, 59, 69, 77] sts.

Knit 4[4, 4, 6, 6] rows (Garter st) inc 8[6, 6, 6 8] sts evenly spaced across last row: 55[65, 65, 75, 85] sts.

Begin lace pattern; RS of neckband is WS of the cardigan.
Row 1: K2, k2tog, k3, yo, [k1, yo, k3, s1 1 knitwise, k2tog, psso, k3, yo] 3[5, 5, 6, 7] times, k1, yo, k3, skp, k2.
Row 2: K2 purl across to last 2 sts, k2.
Rows 3-8: Repeat Rows 1 and 2, 4 times.
Row 9: With CC knit across inc 10[10, 12, 14, 16] sts evenly spaced.
Row 10: Knit across.
Bind off all sts knitwise loosely.

FINISHING

Sew side and sleeve seams.

Button Loop

Place markers on Left Front Band where you want your buttons to be.
With crochet hook join CC to Right Front Band adjacent to marked button position, chain 6 (or adjust number of chains to the size of your button), slip st in same st as joining to form the loop, fasten off. Repeat for remaining loop.
Sew buttons to Left Front Band opposite button loops.

Blocking garment focusing on the lace areas. Stretching the lace areas a little will improve the look of lace. Please note: corn yarn is extremely sensitive to heat – do not iron this yarn!

Hat

With CC and shorter circular needles, cast on 61[71, 71, 81, 91] sts. Place marker, being careful not to twist, join to begin working in the round. Knit Garter st in rounds as follows:
Rnd 1: Knit around.
Rnd 2: Purl around.
Rnd 3: Knit around.
Rnd 4: Purl around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 5: K2tog, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, * s1 1 knitwise, k2tog, psso, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3; repeat from * across to last 2 sts, skp.
Rnd 6: Knit around.
Rnds 7-12: Repeat Rnds 5 and 6, 3 times.
Rnd 13: K1, yo, k3, s1 1 knitwise, k2tog psso, k3, yo, k1, * yo, k3, s1 1 knitwise, k2tog, psso, k3, yo, k1; repeat from * across.
Rnd 14: Knit around.
Rnds 15-20: Repeat Rnds 13 and 14, 3 times.

Sizes 1-2 years, 3-4 years, and 5-6 years Only
Repeat Rows 5-12 one more time.

Work in St st until Hat measures 4[4.25, 4.5, 4.75, 5] inches from cast on edge.
Next Rnd: K2tog, knit around: 60[70, 70, 80, 90] sts.

Crown Shaping

Rnd 1: [K8, k2tog] around: 54[63, 63, 72, 81] sts.
Rnd 2: Knit around.
Rnd 3: [K7, k2tog] around: 48[56, 56, 64, 72] sts.
Rnd 4: Knit around.
Rnd 5: [K6, k2tog] around: 42[49, 49, 56, 63] sts.
Rnd 6: Knit around.
Rnd 7: [K5, k2tog] around: 36[42, 42, 48, 54] sts.
Rnd 8: Knit around.
Rnd 9: [K4, k2tog] around: 30[35, 35, 40, 45] sts.
Rnd 10: Knit around.
Rnd 11: [K3, k2tog] around: 24[28, 28, 32, 36] sts.
Rnd 12: Knit around.

Sizes 0-6 months and 6-12 month Only
Rnd 13: K2tog around: 12[14] sts.
Rnd 14: Knit around.
Rnd 15: K2tog around: 6[7] sts.

Sizes 1-2 years, 3-4 years, and 5-6 years Only
Rnd 13: [K2, k2tog] around: [21, 24, 27] sts.
Rnd 14: Knit around.
Rnd 15: [K1, k2tog] around: [14, 16, 18] sts.
Rnd 16: Knit around.
Rnd 17: K2tog around: [7, 8, 9] sts.
Rnd 18: Knit around.

All Sizes – Top Cord
Move stitches to dpn needle and continue as follows
Rnd 1: K2tog 3 times k3tog 0[0, 0, 0, 1] time, k0[1, 1, 2, 0]: 3[4, 4, 5, 4] sts.
Slip all sts to one dpn.
Next 2 Rows: Slide sts to opposite end of needle, knit across (i-cord).
Bind off all sts.

Lace Pattern:

English

Game On

This pattern originally appeared in Petite Purls Magazine , spring 2010

This checkers game board carpet was inspired by my children’s’ desire to go inside the games they are playing, since they were very young they used to sit on the books , jump into the games boxes so I thought – a board this big – that allow 2 or even 3 children to sit on it comfortably, may bring a lot of joyful moments. The carpet is heavy ( about 7 to 8 kilos ) so it does not slip easily, making it safer for children, on the same time the tricot yarn makes it flexible enough to allow a child to roll inside and hide. The playing options of this item are innumerous, as far as your child’s imagination goes.

Sizes

Will make children of all ages very happy

Finished Measurements

Width: 46 inches; Each Panel = 11.5 inches wide x 46 inches long
Length: 46 inches

Materials

Recycled T-shirt Yarn, made from used t-shirts, or remnants of cotton-tricot fabric
(It is difficult to measure yardage so quantity will be given in weight only)

Off-White: approximately 8.8 pounds, cut to 1 inch wide strips
Light Blue: approximately 8.8 pounds, cut to 1 inch wide strips
Pink: approximately .5 pound, cut to 0.5 inch wide strips
Purple: approximately .5 pound, cut to 0.5 inch wide strips

You can learn how to make your own T-shirt yarn in this tutorial video.

Recommended needle sizes

US #19/15 mm knitting needles
US #L/8 mm crochet hook

Gauge

6.25 sts and 12.5 rows = 4 inches. Exact gauge is not important in this project.

Pattern Notes

Carpet is worked in 4 panels that are joined in the end. This is due to the size and weight of the knitted item.

Skills Required

Garter stitch, knitting with big needles, dc (crochet)

INSTRUCTIONS

CARPET PANEL (make 4)

With knitting needles and MC, cast on 9 sts, change to CC and cast on 9 more sts on the same needle, using the intarsia technique work as follows:

Row 1 (RS): K9 with CC, k9 with MC, changing yarn at back of work.

Row 2: K9 with MC, k9 with CC, changing yarn at back of work.

Rows 3-18: Repeat Rows 1 and 2, 8 times at end of last row, break both yarns.

Row 19: K9 with MC, k9 with CC, changing yarn at back of work.

Row 20: K9 with CC, k9 with MC, changing yarn at back of work.

Rows 21-36: Repeat Rows 19 and 20, 8 times; at end of last row, break both yarns.

Repeat Rows 1-36, 6 times. This will complete the panel, which consists of 2 columns and 8 rows of colored squares.

Bind off all sts knitwise.

TOKENS (circles)

Using crochet hook and slim yarn (pink), ch 7; join with slip st in first ch to form a ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), [dc in ring, ch 1] 11 times; join with slip st third ch of beg ch 4; fasten off.
Crochet 12 Tokens in each color for the checkers game, and a few more just in case

FINISHING

Turn work to wrong side

Weave in all ends.

Lay the panels next to one another , cut 3 pieces of t-shirt yarn, each about 90 inches long, using the crochet hook join the panels one to the other with the “corset join” method.

“CORSET JOIN”

Lay the panels with WS facing you, take the scrap yarn and use a crochet hook to weave the yarn through the back loops that are closest to the side of each panel, crossing the yarn from one side to the other – this is very similar to lacing a corset, after several inches pull the yarn (as you would pull the lace of the corset) to make the join tight and continue with this method to the end. Tie firmly at the end.

Please Note: If you would like to wash the carpet in the washing machine, you can easily unravel the Corset Join, wash, then rejoin the panels together.

English

MC²

This pattern originally appeared in Petite Purls Magazine ,fall 2010

As school days approach quickly, my child is going to start her junior year and there is a lot of excitement around the house. I looked for an idea for a gift that my child would be able to carry with her to school and thus came this pencil case, both practical and personal, and the bonus – 2 hidden pockets, one of which will surely contain a small reassuring “I love you note” from mummy. It is very quick to knit and easy to make it a child’s favorite – just choose the 2 of their favorite colors.

Size

One size

Finished Measurements

Height: 5 inches
Width 9¹/₂ inches

Materials

Pink and White version:
Spud & Chloë™ Sweater [55% wool, 45% organic cotton; 160 yards/146 meters per 100 gram hank];
#7500 Ice Cream; 1 hank
#7512 Watermelon; 1 hank

Brown and Blue version:
Spud & Chloë™ Sweater [55% wool, 45% organic cotton; 160 yards/146 meters per 100 gram hank];
#7511 Chipmunk; 1 hank

Bernat® Cottontots™ [100% cotton; 171 yards/156 meters per 3 ounce/85 gram skein];
#90105 Country Blue; 1 skein

Recommended needle sizes

US #7/4.5 mm needles

Notions

Cotton fabric, 11 x 12 inches for the simple lining or 11 x 25 inches for the advanced version
Sewing pins
10 inch Zipper – 1
Sewing needles and thread

Gauge

18 sts and 24 rows = 4 inches in St st after blocking.
Exact gauge is not important in this project

Pattern Notes

The case is worked in one piece using Entrelac technique throughout.

Skills Required

Entrelac, blocking, lining

INSTRUCTIONS

Base Triangles

Using MC cast on 24 sts – very loosely.
Row 1: K2, turn.
Row 2: P2, turn.
Row 3: K3, turn.
Row 4: P3, turn.
Row 5: K4, turn.
Row 6: P4, turn.
Row 7: K5, turn.
Row 8: P5, turn.
Row 9: K8, turn.

Repeat Rows 2- 9 two more time.
Repeat Rows 2-8
Last Row: K6 (all sts have been worked and you have now 4 triangles on the left needle), turn.

First Tier of Blocks

This tier consists of 2 side triangles and 3 middle blocks:
With WS facing change to CC and work as follows:

Left Side Triangle
Row 1: P2, turn.
Row 2: K1, m1, k1, turn.
Row 3: P2, p2tog (one st from Side Triangle and one st from Base Triangle), turn.
Row 4: K2, m1, k1.
Row 5: P3, p2tog, turn.
Row 6: K3, m1, k1, turn.
Row 7: P4, p2tog, turn.
Row 8: K4, m1, k1, turn.
Row 9: P5, p2tog, do not turn.

Middle Blocks (right leaning blocks)
*With WS facing, pick up 6 sts purlwise along side of the Base Triangle (or Blocks on subsequent tiers), turn.
Row 1 (RS): K6, turn.
Row 2: P5, p2tog, turn.
Rows 3-12: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 five more times, do not turn on the 12th row.
Repeat from * 2 more times (3 blocks made)

Right Side Triangle
With WS facing, pick up 6 sts purlwise along side of the last Base Triangle (or Blocks on subsequent tiers), turn.
Row 1 (RS): K6, turn.
Row 2: P4, p2tog, turn.
Row 3: K5, turn.
Row 4: P3, p2tog, turn.
Row 5: K4, turn.
Row 6: P2, p2tog, turn.
Row 7: K3, turn.
Row 8: P1, p2tog, turn.
Row 9: K2, turn.
Row 10: P2tog, turn, slip last st to the right needle

This completes the first tier of blocks.

Second Tier of Blocks

This tier consists of all full blocks.
Change to MC and proceed as follows:

Block
*For the first block only: With RS facing, pick up 5 sts knitwise along the side of the triangle from the tier below, together with the 1 st in CC there are now 6 sts on the right needle. (For all remaining blocks pick up 6 sts), turn
Row 1 (WS): P6, turn.
Row 2: K5, ssk, turn.**
Rows 3-12: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 five more times, do not turn on the 12th row.

Third –Fifth Tiers of Blocks

Repeat First and Second Tiers, then repeat First Tier once more.

Sixth Tier – positioning the first pocket

With MC and following the instructions for the Second Tier, work the first block stopping at **.
Rows 3-9: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 three times, then repeat Row 1 once more.
Row 10: K1, bind off 4 sts, slip last st back to left needle, ssk, turn.
Row 11: P1, cast on 4 sts purlwise, p1, turn.
Row 12: K5, ssk, do not turn.

This completes the first block in the 6th tier .Work 3 more blocks as given for the 2th tier.

Seventh Tier – positioning the second pocket

With CC and following the instruction for the First Tier, work the Left Side Triangle, then work Rows 1-9 of the first block.
Row 10 (WS): P1, bind off 4 sts, slip the last st back to the left needle, p2tog, turn.
Row 11: K1, cast on 4 sts, k1, turn.
Row 12: P5, p2tog, do not turn.

Complete next 2 blocks and the Right Side Triangle as instructed for the First Tier.

Eighth Tier

Work same as the Second Tier.

Ninth Tier

Work same as the First Tier.

Top Triangles – Last Tier

*With RS facing and MC, pick up 5 sts along the side of the triangle of the tier below (together with the 1 st already on the right needle there are 6 sts on the right needle), turn.
Row 1 (WS): P6, turn.
Row 2: Ssk, k3, ssk, turn.
Row 3: P5, turn.
Row 4: Ssk, k2, ssk.
Row 5: P4, turn.
Row 6: Ssk k1, ssk, turn.
Row 7: P3, turn.
Row 8: Ssk, ssk, turn.
Row 9: P2, turn.
Row 10: K1, ssk, turn.
Row 11: P2, turn
Row 12: Slip 1, ssk, psso – 1 st remains, do not turn.

Repeat from * 3 more times cut the yarn and pull through the last st.

FINISHING

Weave in ends.
Block the garment focusing on the edges to square sides; you might need to stretch the bottom a little more to match the length of the top of the garment.

Lining – simple version
Measure the finished knitted item.
Cut the lining fabric according to the final size of the knitted item – allowing a little extra for the seams.
Fold the lining fabric in half with RS together and sew side seams using sewing thread.
Fold knitted item in half with RS together so that cast on and top edges meet and sew side seams using the knitting yarn.

Turn the knitted case so the RS is facing. Insert the lining fabric inside the case and pin down the fabric to the wrong side of the knitted item with wrong sides together. Fold the seam allowance at the top of the case to match the edge of the knitted item and sew together. With sewing thread, sew fold at bottom of lining to fold of knit piece.
Insert a zipper and sew in place.
With a sewing thread sew around the outer openings to create little pockets, (sewing together the knitted item and the lining fabric – take extra care not to sew to the other side of the case by mistake).

Lining – advanced version (internal divisions)
The internal divider of the lining is approximately 1 inch shorter than the full height of the case.
Measure the finished knitted item.
Cut the lining fabric 8 inches longer than the final height of the knitted item, allowing a little extra on all sides for the seams.
Fold the lining in half with WS together (A to A, B to B) (see diagram for guidance) – sew a line at the top of the fold to secure the fold, sew a second line 4 inches away from the center fold through both thicknesses of lines AB to create the internal divider.

Fold the lining fabric with RS together, with the center fold inside and seam AB at bottom, sew side seams together through all thicknesses. The double thickness of fabric from the center fold to seam AB is the center divider of the lining.

Fold knitted item in half with RS together so that cast on and top edges meet and sew side seams using the knitting yarn.

With RS of knitted case facing, insert the lining fabric inside the case and pin down the fabric to the wrong side of the knitted item, making sure the center divider is in the middle of the case. Fold the seam allowance at the top of the case to match the edge of the knitted item and sew together. With sewing thread, sew line AB to folded edge of knitted piece.
Insert a zipper and sew together.

With a sewing thread sew around the outer openings to create little pockets, (sewing together the knitted item and the lining fabric – take extra care not to sew to the other side of the case by mistake).

Enjoy!

English

CAPUCHON

This pattern appeared originally in Petite Purls Magazine ,fall 2011

Several years ago my eldest daughter received a Red Riding Hood cape as a gift from Grandma. The cape has been a favorite ever since, passing from child to child until my youngest child outgrew it and could not wear it any more. Since we could not find a bigger red cape in the stores, I thought it would be a good idea to knit one.

You can easily transform this cape to a sweet bunny cape (by changing the color of the cape to pink and edge to white).

knitted red cape pattern — model: BG » photos: Brandy Fortune

Sizes

12 months [2-3 years, 4-5 years, 6-8 years]
Shown in size 4-5 years

Finished Measurements

Length: 10¼ [12½, 14½, 17] inches / 26 (32, 37, 43) cm

Materials

Berroco® Lustra [50% Peruvian Wool, 50% Tencel; 197 yards / 180 meters per 3.5 ounce / 100 gram hank]; shade #3155; 3 [3, 4, 5] hanks

A note on the yarn used for this project: Berroco Lustra is a bit fuzzy; it is suitable for older children, but, if knitting for 1 year old it is better to replace the yarn with a baby yarn.

Recommended needle sizes

US #10.5/6.5 mm circular needle
Size H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook or 2 US #6/4 mm double pointed needles

Notions

stitch markers
scrap yarn in a different color for the provisional cast on
one big button

Gauge

With double strand of yarn, 13 sts and 18 rows = 4 inches/10 cm in St st
With double strand of yarn, 16 sts = 4 inches/10 cm in Raspberry pattern

Pattern Notes

The cape is knitted top down beginning at the neckline. Later, the live stitches from the provisional cast on are picked up and the hood is knitted.

Overall, this pattern is fairly easy to knit, but because there are several more advanced techniques involved, the pattern was rated as “intermediate”. I added some notes at the end of the pattern to make it easier for the brave beginner knitter to knit this cape.

Seed Stitch (even number of sts)
Row 1: (K1, p1) across.
Row 2: (P1, k1) across.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for pattern.

Seed Stitch (odd number of sts)
Row 1: K1 (p1, k1) across.
Repeat Row 1 for pattern.

Increase – it is important to knit an invisible increase – you can find a good how-to tutorial here.

Skills Required

Grafting, Provisional cast on, Seed st, p3tog, (k, p, k) all in same st, I-cord

Body

Cape is knitted with double strand throughout.
With 2 strands of MC and scrap yarn, cast on 38 [40, 44, 46] sts using the provisional cast on.
You can find a Provisional Cast On tutorial here.

Set Up Row: Work 4 [4, 5, 5] sts in Seed st, pm, k30 [32, 34, 36], pm, work last 4 [4, 5, 5] sts in Seed st.
Next Row: Work 4 [4, 5, 5] sts in Seed st, p30 [32, 34, 36], work last 4 [4, 5, 5] in Seed st.
Work 0 [2, 2, 4] more rows in pattern, maintaining the Seed st pattern at edges.

Increase Row: Work 4 [4, 5, 5] sts in Seed st, * k2, increase; repeat from * to marker, work 4 [4, 5, 5] sts in Seed st: 53 [56, 61, 64] sts.
Next Row: Work 4 [4, 5, 5] sts in Seed st, p 45 [48, 51, 54], work last 4 [4, 5, 5] sts in Seed st.
Work 2 [2, 4, 4] more rows in pattern, maintaining the Seed st pattern at edges.

Increase Row: Work 4 [4, 5, 5] sts in Seed st, * k4, increase; repeat from * to marker, work 4 [4, 5, 5] sts in Seed st: 83 [88, 95, 100] sts.
Next Row: Work 4 [4, 5, 5] sts in Seed st, purl to marker, work last 4 [4, 5, 5] sts in Seed st.
Work 4 [6, 8, 8] more rows in pattern, maintaining the Seed st pattern at edges.

Increase Row: Work 4 [4, 5, 5] sts in Seed st, * k5, increase; repeat from * to marker, work 4 [4, 5, 5] sts in Seed st: 98 [104, 112, 118] sts.
Next Row: Work 4 [4, 5, 5] sts in Seed st, purl to marker, work last 4 [4, 5, 5] sts in Seed st.
Work 4 [6, 8, 8] more rows in pattern, maintaining the Seed st pattern at edges.

Increase Row: Work 4 [4, 5, 5] sts in Seed st, * k6, increase; repeat from * to marker, work 4 [4, 5, 5] sts in Seed st: 113 [120, 129, 136] sts.
Next Row: Work 4 [4, 5, 5] sts in Seed st, purl to marker, work last 4 [4, 5, 5] sts in Seed st.
Work 0 [6, 8, 8] more rows in pattern, maintaining the Seed st pattern at edges.

Sizes 2-3, 4-5, and 6-8 only
Increase Row: Work [4, 5, 5] sts in Seed st, * k7, increase; repeat from * to marker, work [4, 5, 5] sts in Seed st: [136, 146, 154] sts.
Next Row: Work [4, 5, 5] sts in Seed st, purl to marker, work last [4, 5, 5] sts in Seed st.

Size 6-8 only
Work 8 more rows in pattern, maintaining the Seed st pattern at edges.
Increase Row: Work 5 sts in Seed st, * k7, increase; repeat from * to marker, work 5 sts in Seed st: 172 sts.
Next Row: Work [4, 5, 5] sts in Seed st, purl to marker, work last [4, 5, 5] sts in Seed st.

All Sizes
Work in pattern, maintaining the Seed st pattern at edges, until piece measures 8¼ [10½, 11¾, 13¾] inches / 21 [27, 30, 35] cm from cast on edge, ending with a RS row.
Now is a good time to check the back length and add a few more rows if you need to adjust the cape’s length to your own child. (keep in mind that the border will add 2 [2, 2¾, 2¾] inches / 5 [5, 7, 7] cm more to the length)

** Increase Row (WS): Purl across, increasing 26 [34, 36, 42] sts evenly spaced: 138 [170, 182, 214] sts.

Raspberry Stitch Border
You can find a tutorial about the Raspberry Stitch here.
Row 1 (RS): Purl across.
Row 2 (WS): K1, * (k, p, k) all in next st, p3tog; repeat from * across to last st, k1.
Row 3: Purl across.
Row 4: K1, * p3tog, (k, p, k) all in next st; repeat from * across to last st, k1.
Repeat Rows 1-4, 1 [1, 2, 2] more times.
Bind off all sts.

Hood
Carefully remove the scrap of yarn and transfer the live stitches to the circular needle: 38 [40, 44, 46] sts.
Mark the neckline with a scrap of yarn.
Set Up Row: Work 4 [4, 5, 5] sts in Seed st, pm, k 30 [32, 34, 36], pm, work last 4 [4, 5, 5] sts in Seed st.
Next Row: Work 4 [4, 5, 5] sts in Seed st, p 30 [32, 34, 36], work last 4 [4, 5, 5] sts in Seed st.

Work 0 [2, 2, 2] more rows in pattern, maintaining the Seed st pattern at edges.

Increase Row: Work 4 [4, 5, 5] sts in Seed st, * k3, inc; repeat from * to marker, work 4 [4, 5, 5] sts in Seed st: 68 [72, 78, 82] sts.
Next Row: Work 4 [4, 5, 5] sts in Seed st, purl to marker, work last 4 [4, 5, 5] sts in Seed st.
Work in pattern, maintaining the Seed st pattern at edges, until Hood measures 8 [9, 10, 11] inches / 20 [23, 25, 28] cm from cast on edge, ending with a RS row.
Split the sts into two halves, graft together to close the top of the hood.

A note for the novice knitter:
To make it easier you can cast on using the regular method, continue with the pattern until the increase row ** just before the Raspberry Stitch border. Do not increase; replace the raspberry stitch with Seed st.
At the neck line – pick up 38(40,44,46) sts along the neckline and continue with pattern, instead of grafting the edge you can bind off all sts, and sew sides together.

FINISHING

Weave in all ends.
Block side borders.
Create a loop for the button: with two strands of yarn and a crochet hook chain 12, alternately use one strand of yarn and a double pointed needles use i-cord technique to knit a 2¼ inch / 6 cm cord.
Sew the button to one side; sew ends of the cord to the opposite side.

Since this pattern was published so many capes have been knitted around the world and I really like to see the pictures on ravelry.